Protection at Prada

Yesterday Prada released their AW21 menswear collection via a pre recorded video. The collection is the second collaboration between Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada but their first foray into menswear as a duo. The show, titled Possible Feelings, saw models walk through a set of brightly coloured faux fur designed by Rem Koolhass.

Outerwear featured heavily in the collection with oversized bombers in garish hues of fuchsia and violet, pastel coloured wool overcoats and muted parkas with bold, bright linings turned outwards. There was knitwear in eclectic patterns and pinstripe suits, previously a no go for Miuccia Prada, all worn with sleeves rolled up. Small zip pouches attached to leather gloves and sleeves of jackets were both fashionable and functional. But, one item appeared to ground all the different looks, something that could only be described as a long John- jumpsuit. They were layered under every outfit and came in a variety of styles including, art deco inspired lines and geometric patterns all in a wide range of colours. Simons told Vogue Runway; “We started talking very early on about what kind of piece could represent something very close to the body, literally being almost a representation of the body.”

The theme of protection

At random points in the ‘show’, the video cut to short scenes of the models dancing alone inside the set, wearing only the long John jumpsuit. I didn’t think much into this when watching the show the first time, but after watching Calum Knight discuss these moments and the possible theme of protection on Show Studio my thoughts on these brief appearances changed. It was this quote from Knight that made me look at the entire collection in a new light. 

“As outerwear is added, you see this play of protection, conservatism. There were random parts where models were dancing, when they were dancing they weren’t wearing any outerwear just the long john jumpsuits. Is this about protection & release? I think there’s definitely part of that human element of having to wrap up & protect yourself from the world & then finally finding an environment where you can relax, celebrate & create.” – Calum Knight.

I really like this analysis of how the outwear serves as a form of protection from the world and other people’s opinions. However, when alone or with the right people, the outerwear can be removed and you are able to feel comfortable and express yourself. Although the facial expressions don’t change during the moments of dancing, you get the sense of being able to see more of who the models are. There’s a vulnerability that’s introduced, a feeling that you’re looking in on a moment where they are truly being themselves. 

I think, even without the idea of ‘protecting yourself from the judgement of others,’ in the midst of a pandemic the theme of protection is still an interesting concept to explore in a collection. Although there is nothing groundbreaking about an Autumn collection featuring a lot of outerwear, at a time when we are quite literally being told to ‘hide’ from the virus, it would appear that this is more than just covering up because of the cold.

All Images from Vogue Runway / Prada