Versace & Warhol

Pop Art Perfection

Gianni Versace was undoubtedly responsible for turning the world of fashion into an industry propelled by contemporary culture. He achieved this by designing collections that drew from everything from film, art, and music. He brought vibrant colours and was completely unabashed when it came to combining luxurious classical motifs with over sexuality. As a designer Gianni Versace felt a responsibility to break rules and push boundaries, “I’m a little like Marco Polo, going around and mixing cultures” He once said. This combination attracted as much criticism as it did acclaim. Versace’s love of contemporary art was evident throughout a majority of his collections, many of them featured graphic, pop art prints inspired prints by Andy Warhol, In particular his 1991 Spring / Summer collection.

The collection, now known as the Pop Collection, could be described as a spectacular homage to the sixties, a symphony of brilliant colour, eclectic patterns and garish pop culture prints made their way down the runway. A selection of infamous Vogue covers were reimagined onto a shimmering bodysuit with a Bardot style neckline worn by Christy Turlington. Possibly the most memorable look, however, is the dress that Naomi Campbell wore, covered in iconic sixties screen prints of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean. Two stars who became the heights of popular culture during their star studded careers. The look became so synonymous with the Versace brand, Donatella Versace, sister to Gianni and subsequent CEO of the brand after Gianni’s tragic death, would send it down the runway again sixteen years later. It was a brilliant moment for the discussion around what constitutes art. Could a dress, when covered in iconic works of art become art by itself or would it always remain a stunning garment that just happens to be influenced by the works of a legendary artist. The infamous print also featured on a cropped jacket and vest set in similar colours. The cross over between the two creative mediums was not something Gianni Versace shied away from, when talking to Vogue about his 91 collection he said; “To use art in a flat way, without creative intervention, is in bad taste. I mix it up.”

Warhol played a pivotal role in popularising pop art and turning it into the international phenomenon it became, creating some of the most iconic images of the 20th century. His distinct and playful style came from a clever mix of his love of pop culture, obsession with celebrities and fascination with every day objects, e.g Campbell soup cans and Brillo Pads. Much like Warhol, Gianni Versace possessed and insatiable appetite for pop culture and the designer reported his passion for Warhol was fuelled  by one of his first visits to New York, a new emerging art scene and the clever combination of art and living that Warhol exhibited. He shared a lot of the same passions with Warhol when it came to art and would later refer to Warhol as his soulmate.

Feature Image: Vogue Runway